Fork rebuild and paint

One of the forks had an oil leak indicating that the seal was gone. This and the fact that David wanted the forks legs to be powder coated black, meant a rebuild was in order. When I took the dust seals off I was shocked to see how beat up the stanchions, oil seal lip were and how rusty/leaky looking the bad leg looked. The previous owner obviously and unfortunately had a hard time working on them - just look at the pry marks and clamp marks :( That is why it helps to watch a few instructional videos before trying to do something like this yourself. There are hundreds of techniques for avoiding damage to these parts - aluminium jaws in the vice for one! The last guy obviously didn't us

Blast, paint and wrap - exhaust header

The header also came up pretty good after blasting. I then painted it with high temp (690C) black spray paint. I laid on 3 coats and after each coat, heated the pipes with the hot air gun shooting into each header pipe. This helps the paint go off - according to the instructions you are supposed to bring it up to 100-200C for a few minutes then let it cool to cure the paint before you allow the temperatures to get too high. Then, as per David’s request, I wrapped it in 1.5’’ black header wrap. I have done this a few times now and seem to have got it down pretty good. If you’re going to do this yourself on your build I recommend doing some of your own research and watch some installation

Blasting and painting

After doing a full ‘dry fit’ of all the parts, they were then removed and blasted with glass beads. The parts came up pretty good, some better than others, but definitely provided a good surface ready for paint. Unfortunately things were very rushed in the last couple days of the build so I did very little documentation… Some of the parts were powder coated and some of the parts were spray painted. You will see the parts on the bike though in the weeks to come.

Wiring :)

The part I have been dreading all along… The wiring. Not because I don’t enjoy it, I do. Its like a puzzle to figure out and it is very rewarding when it all works together again. I am no electrics guru, but the wire diagrams just seem to make sense to me and as long as you take the time to follow it, you can usually figure it all out. But that’s the catch, the time. I have been dreading it because it takes so long to get it all sorted! (For me at least). The hardest parts is finding hidden places for everything. There is much more to it than meets the eye. Everything in stock form was placed under the seat, on the battery box, hidden by the side covers. Those items, the starter r

Indicator brackets

To attach the new small indicators, a set of brackets needed to be made. At the front, there is a spare threaded M5 hole on the side of the triple clamps. I believe this is originally used for some reflectors? Anyway, I thought this was a perfect spot to locate the front blinkers. It just required some grinding to privide a smooth, level surface to bolt up to. No overkill required here with the metal gauge, just some 1.5mm sheet metal will be plenty strong enough and is pretty easy to shape. Some nice black M5 button head screws will eventually be used for mounting them. For the rear winkers, rather than welding some brackets to the frame, I decided to make some nice thin brackets that

Battery box!

Something absolutely required to pull off the ‘clean triangle’ look is a battery hidden out of site. This is easier said than done. I decided the best location was just behind the engine and underneath the swingarm. Here it is out of the way of any movement/interference from the swingarm (being forward of the pivot), it is out of site, and it is in a nice location to hook up the starter motor, ground and wire harness leads. There was a spare hole in the engine casings that was not being used. I actually don’t know what is was/is for originally. Anyway it looks very beefy and strong enough to hold the weight of a battery and a metal box. I wanted the box to be strong but not overly heav

Front fender mods

The front fender was already trimmed when I received the bike and was in a bit of a sad state. The front and rear curves were a bit ragged and asymmetrical so I marked some new lines and cut it to shape again. I also lowered it by 15mm by drilling 4 new mounting holes higher up on the fender flanges. I didn’t like how high up off the tyre the original sat, it just looked a bit goofy. Now it looks about right! As it sat on the bike: Holes drilled to lower it: Line marked for trimming: As it sits on the bike now:

Frame painted and seat back!

I finally finished up the prep for the topcoats of paint. Then laid on three coats of glossy black. I like to use engine block paint. It seems that once it cures it has a slightly harder more resilient finish than other spray paints. It came up pretty decent. Hope David likes it :) The day after, I went to the upholsterer to pick up the seat. It came up beautiful. And it looks fantastic on the bike! The rear of the bike looks a bit goofy at the moment without the tail section I think. Its surprising how much that does to tie it off nicely.

Paint prep

I have been told/taught by more than one pro, that paint doesn’t stick to anything better than old paint… So to prep this rear frame, rather than stripping the paint entirely off, I sanded down the existing coat slightly with some 400 grit sandpaper to get a nice grippy surface for the new paint to stick to. Some of the rougher sections were smoothed with a file, then the rest was done with lots of wet and dry sand paper. Once I was satisfied with the prep, I sprayed on a coat of rust preventing primer. Now it is ready for some filler primer, a bit of sanding, then some final coats in satin black :)

Ignition relocation - continued

I usually start by making a bit of a mock up bracket in thin sheet metal or aluminium. This way I know it will be worth the time to cut it out and file it to shape in thicker metal. Once that was done/checked, I made the real thing. Then tacked it in place for final checks, then welded it in properly. I think this will look tidy once the ignition is painted black and some black allen head screws are used.

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