Threads in the seat pan

Today I mostly worked on the SR but still managed to add some threads to the XS seat base and make sure it was all fitting nicely. The four fastening points pulled the seat down flat and even quite neatly. Then I gave the base a few coats of black paint to seal it all up and prevent water damage further down the track.

Taillight bracket/license plate holder

One of the more tricky parts of this build was always going to be the tail light and license plate bracket. David had in mind a nicely frenched in tail light into the rear fender (remaining piece from the trimmed front fender). Which is a really cool idea and will be a nice detail. First I made a quick mock up out of sheet metal to see how it could work. Then it was on to making it in 2mm plate. It was pretty straight forward to cut out the shape with hand tools. The difficulties came when trying to bend it without any bending tools – and the tight flanges. I used a dolly and hammer in the vice to get the fender curve right. Then the rest was done with a hammer over the edge of the vice

Seat mounting brackets

Today I fitted and welded in place some extra frame brackets. These will be for the fastening points to the seat. I was unsure which material to use – I wanted it to be strong and fairly wide, but not too thick and heavy. Luckily I found some ‘hat’ section bar that I had lying around from another project. This is the perfect stuff to use – it is the same wall thickness as the frame tube - which makes it very compatible for welding (even heat input) and it is very rigid and strong for screwing the seat down to. So I straightened out a couple of sections and ground them down at each end to fit the frame snugly. This made them pretty straightforward to weld in place. I added a third piece

XS750 Speedo and headlight brackets - for real this time

It was finally time to turn the headlight bracket and the speedo bracket prototypes into reality. Our workshop does not have a lot of machinery and these are one off parts, so I made them by hand with simple electric hand tools and files. I used a couple simple techniques for getting the shape – printed the flat patterns of the parts then spray glued them to the aluminium, then hole punched and drilled all the holes. After that it was just a matter of cutting and filing. Then bends were done with some angle iron in the vice and a wooden drift and hammer. Came up pretty good! I will still bead blast them and powder coat them so they will clean up pretty nice I think.

Sorting the seat base

Yesterday we received the seat base in the mail from David. He had made a jig and laminated some plywood to match the frames kick/bend. He did a nice job of it. Unfortunately there is a slight twist that occurred from the lamination process. This will be compensated for by having 4 secure fastening points to the frame to pull it all down evenly. A rough outline was marked out for the base and cut with a circular saw (should have used a jigsaw but didn’t have one at hand). Then some fine-tuning was done with a sanding wheel. A small amount of wood was removed in two locations on the underside of the seat base – to fit some of the frame details. Now it fits great and sits flush. I also f

Finalising the header

After deciding on the location for the silencer with David, it was time to fabricate the junction required to bridge the connection between the end of the header collector and silencer. If this exhaust were to be blasted and chromed or black ceramic coated, a much nicer and tidier solution would be found – perhaps a cone would be rolled and welded in place. But this header is going to be blasted, painted with black exhaust header paint, then wrapped in header tape, so these junctions will not be seen and the performance will be just the same. So it was decided to make a rough and ready stepped cone from two different diameter tubes. The ends were flared to match each other, then the edge

XS750 Header repair... continued

Managed to fix up the other rotted out flange yesterday. Using the same process as the other one - cut off the rusted out existing flange, clean up for welding, cut a new steel ring, weld in place, grind flat. Then I mounted the header to see what needs to be done to join the header to the silencer in the correct position - a nice up-swept angle and slightly out to the side. I will fabricate a kinked tube to match the required angles and then weld it in place.

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